Arunachaleswarar Temple, Thiruvannamalai

The Arunachaleswarar Temple at Thiruvannamalai is one of the grandest Shiva temples in Tamil Nadu and the Pancha Bhoota Sthala that represents the element of fire (agni). Spread over about 25 acres at the foot of the sacred Arunachala hill, it is known for its towering gopurams, the Karthigai Deepam beacon lit on the summit, and the Girivalam circuit walked by lakhs of pilgrims on full-moon nights.

The fire element among the five

South Indian tradition holds five temples where Shiva is worshipped through one of the five elements, and Arunachaleswarar is the temple of fire (agni). The hill of Arunachala itself is regarded as a column of fire, and the lingam in the sanctum embodies that element. The story behind it is the lingodbhava: when Brahma and Vishnu argued over who was greater, Shiva appeared as an endless pillar of fire whose top and bottom neither could find — and the hill is held to be that pillar cooled into stone.

Karthigai Deepam, the great beacon

The temple’s signature festival is Karthigai Deepam, in November–December, when a giant lamp — the Maha Deepam — is lit in a cauldron of ghee on the summit of Arunachala at dusk. The flame, visible for miles across the plain, is taken as the manifestation of Shiva as light. On that night the town overflows, and the lighting of the beacon is among the most striking sights in the South Indian religious year.

Girivalam — walking around the hill

Girivalam is the practice of walking the roughly 14-kilometre road that circles Arunachala, undertaken especially on full-moon (pournami) nights. Pilgrims walk barefoot through the night, passing shrines to eight lingams set at the compass points around the hill. On full-moon days the circuit draws enormous crowds, and the walk has become one of the best-known devotional practices of Tamil Nadu.

A temple of gopurams and halls

The temple grew over centuries under the Cholas, Pandyas, Hoysalas and the Vijayanagara kings. Its eastern Rajagopuram rises in nine tiers to about 66 metres, among the tallest temple towers in India, and four great gopurams mark the cardinal directions. Inside lie thousand-pillar halls, broad courtyards and tanks, with the sanctum of Arunachaleswarar and the shrine of the goddess Unnamulai Amman at the centre.

Annamalaiyar and Unnamulai Amman

Shiva here is Annamalaiyar or Arunachaleswarar, and his consort is Unnamulai Amman (Apitakuchamba). The temple is one of the Paadal Petra Sthalams, sung by the Tamil Nayanar saints, and its sanctity runs through Tamil devotional poetry. For the sage Ramana Maharshi, whose ashram lies nearby, the hill and its lord were the living form of the Self.

How to reach Arunachaleswarar Temple

• By road: the temple is in the centre of Thiruvannamalai, well connected by bus to Chennai, Villupuram, Vellore and Puducherry.
• By train: Thiruvannamalai railway station is about 2 km from the temple.
• By air: Chennai (about 185 km) is the nearest major airport.

Frequently Asked Questions

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